(Various regions – written for BIKE SA in 2017)
It’s been exactly ten years since my first article was published in Bike SA, and what an adventure it’s been! In that time I’ve ridden some 100, 000 km on SA’s and Lesotho’s dirt tracks on a great variety of motorcycles, but primarily on my faithful old legends: a Yamaha XT250; Kawasaki KLR650; Suzuki DR650 and, of late, a classic Honda XRV750 Africa Twin.
Bike 1: Yamaha XT250 (Rebeccasaurus) – the early years (2006 – 2007) Approx. 15,000 km
I bought this bike before moving to the Karoo town of Aberdeen in 2005. Its first major trip was a 3000 km solo-circumnavigation of the Great Karoo, resulting in a book of the same name and its success was the inspiration for me to become a full-time motorcycle, off-road vehicle and general travel writer. But that journey is best summarised by the book itself and I am tasked here with only presenting summaries of tours published either in Bike SA, Quad SA, Quad & Offroad SA and Offroad & Adventure SA over the last 10 years.
TOUR 1: Through the Karoo to Die Hel (Gamkaskloof).
My first piece published in Bike SA in February 2007. This was classic “David vs Goliath” stuff as I was riding the small XT250 and my old school mate, Ian Huddlestone, aka: the “Stone” was on his newly acquired BMW GS1200. It was a journey which first took us eastwards to Fullarton along very minor dirt tracks and then west through Swanepoel’s Poort and Miller to our first overnight stop at Stoepies – a farm showcasing “impossibly beautiful sunsets.”
Tour Summary
The route: Day 1: Aberdeen via Bultfontein to Klipplaat, then to Fullarton via Grootrivierhoogte and on to our overnight stop, “Stoepies” via Swanepoel’s Poort and Miller — approx. 230 km, all on dirt tracks. Day 2: From“Stoepies” via Beervlei Dam and Rietbron to Prince Albert, Swartberg Pass to Gamkaskloof (Die Hel) — approx. 285 kilometres, 228 km (80%) on dirt tracks. Day 3: To Aberdeen via Prince Albert, Rietbron and on tarred R61 home – approx. 312 km, 228 km (73%) on dirt tracks.
Total distance travelled: 827 km over 3 days, approx. 686 km (83%) on dirt tracks.
Experience required: Moderate to Advanced (the latter only if roads are wet).
Best time of year to go: April to September.
Route, trip and challenges – highlights reel: Test riding the “Stone’s” big Beemer on an open stretch of deserted tar and reaching 200 km/h with a grin etched on my face; skating about on super-slippery Karoo clay after a thunderstorm opened up in front of us, and, of course, flying down the jump-hump covered opening stages of the 50 km dirt track to Gamkaskloof and the serpentine descent into Die Hel itself; just before sunset.
Accommodation notes: Stoepies Farm (45 km SW of Aberdeen) – 082 415 9260 and Cape Nature for accommodation options in Gamkaskloof (Die Hel) – 021-4830190.
TOUR 2: To the Valley of Baboons (Baviaanskloof).
This was the first time that I met the “Stone’s” soccer mate and riding partner, David “Sempei” Lowe and it marked the beginning of a great friendship that has grown greatly over the years. This epic trip, which saw us traverse the whole of the Baviaanskloof once and the upper half three times, is a bucket-lister for all serious adventure bikers as it provides a truly unique environment and a one-of-a-kind riding experience. Particularly if you do our Day 2 circular route; but not in the dark!
David and the “Stone” do the record cover pose on a typical Baviaan’s pass.
Tour Summary
The route: Day 1: Aberdeen to Cambria via Miller, Willowmore and the Baviaanskloof – approx. 276 km, 240 km (87%) on dirt tracks. Day 2: Cambria to Studtis via Patensie, Elandsrivier pad, Steytlerville and Nuwekloof – approx. 353 km, 333 km (94%) on dirt tracks. Day 3: Studtis to Aberdeen via Nuwekloof, Willowmore and Miller – approx. 212 km, 178 km (84%) on dirt tracks.
Total distance travelled: 841 km over 3 days, approx. 751 km (89%) on dirt tracks.
Experience required: Moderate to Advanced (dependant on water levels in Baviaanskloof).
Best time of year to go: May to October, but check with locals about recent rainfalls before going.
Route, trip and challenges – highlights reel: The heady and exacting first ride through the Baviaanskloof; swimming naked in the rivers to ward off the sweltering heat; getting David’s damaged bike (cracked tappet cover from a river fall) to Kudu Kaya and having the late Johan van der Watt mend it with Pratleys (followed by a great braai and lots of wine); experiencing the unique mountain-spine ride that is the Elandsrivier pad to the Groot Rivier crossing en-route to Steytlerville; riding almost half the Baviaanskloof in the dark second time round due to delays along the way and enjoying cold beers with a kind farmer’s wife prior to locating our host and the keys to our cottage.
Accommodation notes: Kudu Kaya (Cambria) - 087 700 8195 and Baviaanskloof Guest Cottages (near Studtis) - 087 700 3551.
Bike 2: Kawasaki KLR 650 (Yeeha!) – October 2007 to present. Approx. 75,000 km
The first time I rode this bike after collecting it in PE I remember being incredibly stoked with the step-up in power from my XT250. Of course, it was a lot taller, heavier and more difficult to handle as well; but even with the road-biased Anakees it was shod with then, I was soon used to its quirks and quickly arranged to meet up with the “Stone” and later David, too, for a testing Bo-Karoo tour.
TOUR 3: Bo-Karoo – 4-day odyssey (Merweville; Meltonwold; Van der Kloof Dam; Richmond).
After heavy rains a few days prior to my departure, it was a baptism of mud-sliding for me on the Anakee-shod KLR en route to meet the “Stone” in Prince Albert. He was having problems of his own riding from Cape Town with many of the access roads being closed due to flooding. But we eventually met up at our Bush Pub rendezvous and had a ball traversing the Bo-Karoo (among other things, getting hopelessly lost and searching for alien ships from the top of boulder-covered koppies) and connected with David riding his new BMW GS1200 Adventure in Victoria West, two days later.
Tour Summary
The route: Day 1: Aberdeen to Merweville via Prince Albert and Prince Albert Road – approx. 262 km, 152 km (58%) on dirt tracks. Day 2: Merweville to Meltonwold (outside Victoria West) via Rooiberg Pass, Sutherland, Fraserburg and Loxton – 420 km, 400 km (95%) on dirt tracks. Day 3: Meltonwold to Van der Kloof Dam via Victoria West, Merriman, De Aar and Petrusville - 358 km, 247 km (69%) on dirt tracks. Day 4: Van der Kloof Dam to Richmond via back roads between Petrusville and Phillipstown, and similarly between the latter and Hanover – 256 km (80%) on dirt tracks.
Total distance travelled: 1296 km over 4 days, approx. 1055 km (81%) on dirt tracks.
Experience required: Beginner to Moderate (but advanced navigation skills!)
Best time of year to go: May and September.
Route, trip and challenges – highlights reel: Loving the new (used) bike, albeit shod with iffy road-biased tyres; the pan-flute music piped through the entire Springbok Lodge in Merweville gave us cause to rib the Dominee proprietor (jammer Kallie!); enjoying thundering up the artisanal Rooiberg Pass with the “Stone” trying to catch me; joining the “Stone” in looking for countless alien spaceships from a number of boulder-topped koppies climbed; getting lost on the way to Meltonwold; tearing my hamstring trying not to put my new KLR down; staying at the anachronistic yet nostalgic and comfortable Meltonwold Hotel; riding all sorts of great new secondary tracks from Vic West to Van der Kloof Dam and soaking up the great Zen-dirt between Hanover and Richmond.
Accommodation notes: Springbok Lodge - 083 255 6931; Meltonwold Guest Farm – 053 621 1912 or 053 621 0906; Vanderkloof Dam Holiday Resort (Chalets & Camping) - 053 664 0198 and Marina’s Guest House (Richmond) - 053 693 0142.
TOUR 4: Breaking the Hog’s Back (Eastern Cape Karoo – Willowmore, Cradock, Hogsback and Steytlerville).
The terrible trio: David, Ian (the “Stone”) and Nick (writer) were off into the Karoo again; this time bound for the otherworldly reaches of the Eastern Cape. I met up with them at a cottage I’d booked adjacent to the Willowmore Historical Guest House (some call it the Hysterical Guest House, we were told, due to the number of ghost sightings there) and we proceeded to over-celebrate our reunion; an activity which later saw us goose-stepping around the hotel wearing German war helmets (courtesy of the bar’s war memorabilia collection) and singing Allied marching tunes…eish!
Tour Summary
The route: Day 1: Willowmore to Cradock – via Grootrivier back road, Kamferspoort, Mount Steward, Jansenville and Swaershoek Pass – 362 km, 325 km (90%) on dirt tracks Day 2: Cradock to Hogsback via Tarkastad, Whittlesea, Sada, Devil’s Bellows and Seymour – 275 km, 177 km (64%)on dirt tracks Day 3: Hogsback to Steytlerville via Fort Beaufort, Koonap River Bridge, Carlisle Bridge, the R400 past Darlington Dam, Waterford and Wolwefontein – 362 km, 207 km (57%) on dirt tracks.
Total distance travelled: 999 km over 3 days, approx. 709 km (71%) on dirt tracks.
Experience required: Moderate to Advanced.
Best time of year to go: April to October, but check long range weather forecasts for Katberg Pass
Route, trip and challenges – highlights reel: excellent dirt track riding all the way, but particularly from Willowmore to Cradock via Grootriviershoogte (some maps call it Kamferspoort), Mount Steward and the beautiful Swaershoek Pass; the challenge of riding the latter pass in the freezing rain and mud without a clutch on the KLR and then narrowly missing a kudu bull and an Eagle Owl on the descent ; being rescued by good Samaritan, Stan (the-Cradock-KLR-man-that-can), who supplied and fitted a new clutch cable ; the “Stone” had a long conversation with an Nguni bull; cruising the topographically varied dirt track to Tarkastad; persuading a drunk local in Whittlesea that mounting my motorbike was not a good idea; getting lost en route to the Katberg Pass and falling over in front of an appreciative crowd in a Xhosa village after enquiring about directions; traversing the Katberg Pass over some really challenging and slippery sections; conquering the 50-metres of Grade 4, 4x4 track on the Michel’s Pass between Seymour and Hogsback as the sun was going down; lapping up the pristine dirt tracks that wound their way through game farm lands between Fort Beaufort and Carlisle Bridge and taking in the Steytlerville follies at the Karroo Theatrical Hotel.
Accommodation notes: Victoria Manor Tuishuise (Cradock) - 048 881 1322; The Edge (Hogsback) – 045-962 1159 and the Karroo Theatrical Hotel (Steytlerville) - 049 835 0010.
TOUR 5: To the land of the Bushmen (+ 1700 km round trip from Bot River through the Ceres Karoo, Bushmanland plus the Tankwa and Klein Karoos).
Our (David, the “Stone” and myself) 5-day plan was to head from Ceres via Clanwilliam onto Calvinia, then to Kenhardt via Loeriesfontein and Bossiekom, to Williston through Van Wyksvlei and Bergsig, then to make for Touwsrivier, passing through the Tankwa karoo — and finally back to our respective hometowns via Montagu and Villiersdorp. But, as with most route plans, there are often deviations…
Tour Summary
The route: Day 1: Bot River to Calvinia via Ceres, Wuppertal 4x4 track and Botterkloof on the R364 – 440km, 229 km (52%) on dirt tracks Day 2: Calvinia to Kenhardt via Loeriesfontein, Granaatboskolk and Dagab – 324 km, 311 km (96%) on dirt tracks Day 3: Kenhardt to Williston via Van Wyksvlei and the Beeswaterleegte – 330 km, 301 km (91%) on dirt tracks Day 4: Williston to TouwsrivierviaPetrusvile, Quaggasfontein Poort, Middelpos and the Ganagga Pass – 396 km, 348 km (88%)on dirt racks Day 5: Touwsrivier to Bot River via Montagu and Villiersdorp – 245 km, 185 km (75%) on dirt.
Total distance travelled: 1735 km over 5 days, approx. 1374 km (79%) on dirt tracks.
Experience required: Moderate to Advanced (particularly Wuppertal and Beeswaterleegte tracks).
Best time of year to go: May to September, although late August would be preferable.
Route, trip and challenges – highlights reel: first-timing the challenging Eselbank-Wuppertal 4x4 track (it was so flooded the “road” was a river, but this helped us through the sandy sections); nearly running out of petrol before Calvinia, but just making it and then having a good bar night and comfortable stayover at the Hantam Hotel; enjoying the relatively smooth dirt track to Loeriesfontein and then travelling the wide and lonely dirt roads at speed until encountering a couple of huge ore carrier trucks whose mega dust clouds stopped us from passing for some time; sharing a beer and biking stories with Eaton at the Kenhardt Hotel; picnic lunch atop an ironstone boulder koppie outside Van Wyksvlei; transiting a Kloof whose “road” had turned into a raging torrent after recent rains; staying over at the old Williston Hotel where a bath took half-an-hour to run, but the food was top-notch; blazing a trail on disused farm tracks between Williston and Middelpos when locked farm gates blocked our way; descending the magnificent Ganagga Pass and taking in the purple haze of summer flowers below and being rescued by Waltie, the Loganda Lodge Hotel (Touwsrivier) Manager when I couldn’t fix my flat tyre.
Accommodation notes: Hantam Hotel (Calvinia) — 027-341 1512; Kenhardt Hotel – 054-651 0052; Williston Hotel – 053-391 3005 and Loganda Lodge (Touwsrivier) — 023-358 1130.
TOUR 6: The West Coast Tour (1500 km trip taking in Lamberts Bay and Doringbaai before heading inland to Springbok and south to Clanwilliam).
This tour marked the first of many future forays into the pristine Wild West. I was again accompanied by trusty mates, David and Ian, who I connected with at Paddagang Restaurant in Tulbagh. The challenge with West Coast tours, though, is finding enough connecting dirt tracks as there is too much tar about; and equally important, trying not to bog down in the sand on those you do find.
Tour Summary
The route: Day 1: Bot River to Lamberts Bay via Villiersdorp, Tulbagh, Piketberg, Sauer, Redelinghuys and Elands bay – 352 km, 180 km (51%) on dirt tracks Day 2: Lamberts Bay to Springbok via Doringbaai, Lutzville, Kotzerus, Waltekraal, Soebatsfontein, Wildeperdhoek Pass – 408 km , 323 km on dirt tracks Day 3: Springbok to Clanwilliam via Loeriesfontein, Nieuwoudtville, Doringbos and Pakhuis Pass – 421 km, 303 km (72%) on dirt tracks Day 4: Clanwilliam to Bot River via Citrusdal, Middelburg Pass, Ceres, Worcester and Villiersdorp – 343 km, 85 km (25%) on dirt tracks.
Total distance travelled: 1524 km over 4 days, approx. 891 km (58%) on dirt tracks.
Experience required: Beginner to Moderate (practice sand track riding before you go).
Best time of year to go: August to November, although late August would again be preferable.
Route, trip and challenges – highlights reel: managing some hectic sand tracks on a detour outside Redelinghuys; riding close to the coast from Kreefbaai to Lamberts Bay and enjoying an excellent seafood dinner (Bassa – sea bass) at Isabellas down at the harbour; riding along the well-graded train service toll road between Lambert’s Bay and Doringbaai and being halted at a railway crossing for what seemed like hours as a mile long Saldanha-Sishen ore-carrying train thundered past; picking our way through the wandering sand and dirt tracks of Namaquland, getting lost often on the spider web network of dirt roads and eating a selection of David’s fine imported meats in the middle of a farmer’s field when we had absolutely no idea where we were; thinking of cold beers at the Springbok Lodge in Springbok encouraged us to blitz it up the Wildeperdhoek Pass after passing through a beautiful section of the Namaqualand National Park; drinking in the views of the boulder-crumble ridges that line the R355 to Loeriesfontein; enjoying a picnic lunch at the picturesque Nieuwoudtville Falls and lapping up the fine food, wines and sumptuous comfort at our last overnight stop - Saint du Barry’s Guest House in Clanwilliam.
Accommodation notes: Sir Lambert’s Guest House (Lamberts Bay) – 027-423 1117; Springbok Lodge (Springbok) – 027-712 1321 and Saint du Barrys guest house (Clanwilliam) on 027-482 1537.
TOUR 7: N. Cape winter equinox tour (1800km: Laignsburg; Carnarvon; Verneuk Pan; Sutherland).
Dreaming up an excuse for another back roads excursion, I settled on a roundabout dirt track excursion through the Great Karoo to Verneuk Pan — about as far away as you can get from anywhere in SA — to celebrate the Winter Equinox: the longest, and often coldest, night of the year.
Tour Summary
The route: Day 1: Botriver to Laignsburg — Botriver to Montagu (155 km); to Laignsburg, via Ouberg (181 km) Day 2: Laignsburg to Carnarvon — to Dwyka siding turn-off (+- 46 km ); extent of Dwyka detour (36 km); N1 T-Junction to Prince Albert’s Road (3 km); Prince Albert Road to Merweville (43 km); Merweville to R353 T-junction to Fraserburg (44 km); to Fraserburg (70 km); to Carnarvon on R308 (125 km). Day 3: Carnarvon to Verneuk Pan — to Van Wyksvlei turn-off (+- 6 km), to “interesting” dirt track detour (10 km), to Van Wyksvlei (90 km – 31 km longer than direct route); to Verneuk Pan turn-off (+- 30 km), to pan camp-site (82 km). Day 4: Verneuk Pan to Sutherland — from camp-site to Swartkop (30 km); turn left at blue gums for 31 km to R357, turn right and travel around 7 km and then turn left at Williston sign: travel 110 km. Head out on Williston/Calvinia road and turn left for Sutherland after 3 km. Sutherland is 134 km on. Day 5: Sutherland to Botriver — to Bo-visrivier turn-off (4 km); to Ouberg turn-off (+- 34 km); down Ouberg Pass to Onder-Wadrif-Amandelsnek road T- junction( +- 25 km); to T-junction with R355 to Ceres (78 km); to Hottentotskloof (69 km), to N1 outside Touwsrivier (35 km), to Bot River via Worcester (153 km).
Total distance travelled: Around 1634 km — about 1274 km (78%) on dirt tracks.
Experience required: Moderate to Advanced (particularly for the Dwyka detour and V. Pan if wet).
Best time of year to go: May to September.
Route, trip and challenges – highlights reel: the challenge of the Dwyka rail-side detour; experiencing David Kramer’s much vaunted “Teekloof Pas” outside Fraserburg for the first time – even though tarred, it still proved good riding and showcased magnificent views; braving the 30 km of thick, wheel-sucking sand on a self-imposed 70 km detour between Carnarvon and Van Wyksvlei; racing full tilt across Verneuk Pan just before sundown; noting my fellow rider, Christine’s, ingenious way of transporting “Brandewyn vir die Pyn” on a bouncing adventure bike – a hospital drip bag with a tube and tap she could unlock into her coke… and she really needed it after falling off her BMW GS650 often en route; meeting Alwyn the jackal hunter and his family on one of the secondary back roads between Verneuk Pan and Williston and enjoying an excellent dinner at Pearlman’s Restaurant in freezing Sutherland, then run by Victor, Annie and her ageing, yet feisty old mum.
Accommodation notes: Herambi guest house (Laignsburg): 083 229 5599; Lord Carnarvon guest house (Carnarvon): 082 780 4209; Verneuk Pan Accommodation: 073 428 5947 and Die Prokereur’s Huis (Sutherland): 082 857 5482.
TOUR 8: The Lesotho Tour (this 1600 km trip eventually led into the standalone Wild Coast Tour and, starting as usual in Bot River, made stopovers at Groenfontein Guest Farm outside Calitzdorp; Rouxville; Malelea Lodge and Mount Moorosi Chalets, both in Lesotho).
Although a challenging tour for Pieter and me, it was a bitter pill for the “Stone” to swallow. After months of preparation and planning, his BMW GS1200 drowned three times in raging torrents that swept up over the right cylinder head and were sucked into his low-lying air intake. Even though he and Pieter flushed the engine each time and it was then also professionally serviced in George later, lady luck was not with him – when trying to catch us up on our way to Rouxville, the “Stone’s” back tyre started to delaminate and he decided to call it quits. Pieter and I were luckier, and had a jol.
Tour Summary
The route: Day 1:Bot River to Groenfontein Guest Farm outside Calitzdorp: To Montagu via Scherpenheuwel and Robertson (150 km – 80 km on dirt tracks); from Montagu to Calitzdorp (R62 – 175 km, tar) and from Calitzdorp to Groenfontein Guest farm (20 km –dirt) Distance Day 1: 345 km, 100 km (29%) on dirt. Day 2: Groenfontein Guest Farm to Rouxville: to Willowmore via De Rust, Meiringspoort and Klaarstroom (196 km – 166 km on dirt); Willowmore to Cradock via Steytlerville, Jansenville and Pearston (307 km – 202 km on dirt); Cradock to Rouxville via Hofmeyr, Steynsburg, Burgersdorp and Aliwal North (275 km – tar). Distance Day 2: 778 km, 368 km (47%) on dirt. Day 3: Rouxville to Malealea Lodge in Lesotho: to Mekaleng Bridge border post via Zastron (73 km – 39 km on dirt); Mekaleng bridge to Malealea Lodge via Mohale’s Hoek, Tsepo, Mpharane and Masemouse (75 km – 68 km on dirt). Distance Day 3: 148 km, 107 km (72%) on dirt. Day 4: Malealea Lodge to Mount Moorosi Chalets: to Mount Moorosi Chalets via Motsekuoa; Mafeteng; Mohale’s Hoek and Moyeni (Quthing). Distance Day 4: 204 km, 16 km (8%)on dirt. Day 5: (half day) Mount Moorosi Chalets to Qacha’s Nek border post: to Qacha’s Nek via Mphaki and Sekake (132 km – tar) Distance Day 5 (half day): 132 km, 100% tar.
Total distance travelled: Around 1607 kilometres over 4.5 days — about 591 km (37%) on dirt.
Experience required: Beginner to Experienced.
Best time of year to go: April-May and September- November.
Route, trip and challenges – highlights reel: A most challenging tour from both an ability and endurance point of view as the entire Western and Eastern Cape was experiencing flooding, and I also had my longest ever day in the saddle; but the rewards were great too: flying over the plains of Camdeboo between Jansenville and Pearston, transiting the beautiful Swaershoek Pass to Cradock in the rain; climbing through the magnificent Malutis from behind Mohale’s Hoek towards Malealea Lodge and being directed onto a very edgy goat track en route; and experiencing the most twisty and scenic alpine tar road (albeit badly potholed in places) ever - Moyeni (Quthing) to Qacha’s Nek.
Accommodation notes: Groenfontein guest farm - 044 213 3851; Tinkerbell s/c guest house in Rouxville – 0834420299; Malealea Lodge – 082 552 4215 and Mount Moorosi Chalets — +266 63633416 or +266 588 40129; email maxmonongoaha@gmail.com
TOUR 9: The Ride4Wildlife Tour (A 1800 circular tour of the Great Karoo starting in Aberdeen and stopping over at: Middelpos; Kenhardt; Vanderkloof Dam; Mount Melsetter near Schoombee and back to Aberdeen).
Endangered Wildlife Chairman, friend and fellow rider, Dirk Ackerman, approached me to plan a tour to raise awareness about how many of our wild animals are being killed on our roads. In addition, we introduced the Roadwatch cell phone App — designed to gather stats for future road and fence planning — to the adventure biking public. The resultant tour was an abbreviated re-enactment of my Circling the Great Karoo route, from the other way around, and it took five nights and five days.
Fraserburg dirt track after a Karoo thunderstorm.
Tour Summary
The route: Day 1: Aberdeen to Middelpos: via Beaufort West on the R61 and the Nelspoort Road; the Merweville road to the T-junction with the R353 to Fraserburg; Belgravia Farm and the Bonekraal Road. Distance Day 1: Around 475 km, about 333 km (70%) on dirt tracks. Day 2: Middelpos to Kenhardt: via Koosdrif and the R27 passing through Brandvlei. Distance Day 2: Around 295 km, around 74 km (25%) on dirt tracks. Day 3: Kenhardt to Van der Kloof Dam: via Putsonderwater; Marydale; Draghoender; Koegas; Prieska; Hopetown and Orania. Distance Day 3: Around 440 km, about 286 km (65%) on dirt tracks. Day 4: Vanderkloof Dam to Mount Melsetter — via Luckhoff; Fauresmith; Jagersfontein, Trompsburg; Bethulie; Steynsburg and Schoombee. Distance Day 4: 410 km, about 213 km (52%) on dirt tracks Day 5: Mount Melsetter to Aberdeen — via Schoombee; Grassridge Dam; Cradock; Swaershoek Pass; Pearston and just bypassing Jansenville. Distance Day 5: Around 335 km, about 315 km (94%) on dirt tracks.
Total distance travelled: Around 1801 kilometres over 5 days — about 1221 km (68%) on dirt roads.
Experience required: Beginner to Advanced.
Best time of year to go: April to October.
Route, trip and challenges – highlights reel: Sluicing our way through the aftermath of a major Karoo thunderstorm from Beaufort West to Middelpos; Jaco and I being led by two farmers on a “not-so-slippery-detour” to bypass a section of road-wash-away that also offered almost zero traction and which Dirk cleverly opted out of; racing Jaco’s KLR on the long and straight tar stretch to Kenhardt…and winning by a country mile —Yeeha!; enjoying the epically scenic Gariep riverside ride between Draghoender and Prieska; the chilled rest day at Vanderkloof Dam and being woken from my slumber by dubious accounts of Dirk and Jaco’s fishing successes; the cumulative sadness of all the unnecessary roadkill we tallied up over the trip; reacquainting myself with the beautiful transition zone between the Free State grasslands, punctuated by crenelated ridges, and the succulent Karoo – just north of the Gariep River – as we rode from Vanderkloof Dam to Schoombee and the champagne celebration of our “circumnavigation” after arriving back in Aberdeen.
Accommodation notes: Pagel House in Aberdeen: 049-846 0611; Middelpos Hotel: 027-341 2505; Kenhardt Hotel: 054-651 0052; Pride Rock Lodge (Vanderkloof): 053-664 0242; Mount Melsetter (outside Schoombee): 049-842 1520 and The Homestead (Aberdeen): 049-846 0612.
Bike 3: Honda Africa Twin (XRV750 – Sir Galahad, first knight of the gravel) – October 2015 to present. Approx. 10,000 km to-date
TOUR 10: There’s no thirst like Bathurst (A nearly 1900 km tour taking in the eastern parts of the Eastern Cape with stops at: Hartebeest Post outside Uniondale; Bathurst and Hartebeest Post again before heading home to Bot River).
outside Alicedale en route to Bathurst.
This was my first long ride on my vintage Africa Twin, somewhat modified with a Rally fairing, bespoke headlights and digital speedo after my friend and client, Adam Schwindt, who I bought the bike from, fixed it up post taking a rocky detour on our first Spaceriders excursion. Even though the “Stone” had told me how well-balanced these bikes were (his was stolen from an underground carpark and he still rues its loss) I was amazed at just how well it handled the rough stuff – something I was grateful for when the jeep track I was following disappeared completely.
Tour Summary
The route: Day 1: Bot River to Hartebeest Post (outside Uniondale): N2 to Stormsvlei, to Bonnievale, then Montagu and R62 from there to Dysseldorp dirt track turn-off outside De Rust (392 km – tar); to the junction with the N9 outside Uniondale (75 km – dirt); to Uniondale on the N9 (10 km –tar); on the N9 to the Hartebeest Post (Zaaimansdal) dirt track (11 km – tar) and then to the Hartebeest Post farmhouse (9 km –dirt). Distance Day 1: 488 km, 73 km (15%) on dirt. Day 2: Hartebeest Post to Bathurst: to Nuwekloof (Baviaanskloof) turn-off (65 km –dirt); on the R332 to Willowmore for 16 km (dirt); then right onto the Steytlerville Road for 78 km (dirt) until tar road T-Junction; into Steytlerville (22 km -tar); on the dirt track running past the Karroo Theatrical Hotel to Kleinpoort junction with R75 (55 km – dirt); to Kirkwood (28 km – tar); to junction with R335 near Coerney (dirt – 28 km); onto Paterson on the R335 for 25 km (tar); then up the N10 past Bellevue Kop, turning right after 16 km (tar) to Alicedale (17 km –tar); back onto dirt to junction with N2 ( 34 km – dirt), left onto N2 turning right at Mosslands turn-off after 2 km (tar); from here on difficult dirt track until reaching Southwell after 47 km (dirt); to Bathurst (23 km – dirt) Distance Day 2: 456 km, 347km (76%) on dirt tracks. Day 3: Bathhurst to Hartebeest Post (outside Uniondale) via Port Alfred to Boknes (51 km – tar); to Alexandria dirt track detour (21 km –dirt); from Alexandria via N2 to Kareedouw turn-off (212 km –tar); on R62 up the Langkloof to Uniondale turn-off (149 km – tar); to Hartebeest Post via Uniondale (30 km – 21 km tar and 9 dirt). Distance Day 3: 464 km, 433 km (93%) on tar roads. Day 4: Hartebeest Post to Bot River: to Hoekplaaspad dirt track turn-off from R339 (28 km — 19 tar; 9 km dirt); sublime dirt track to R341 to De Rust (26 km – dirt); then via R62 to Barrydale (248 km – tar), Tradouw’s Pass to Swellendam (38 km – tar) and then N2 to Bot River (139 km –tar).Distance Day 4: 479 km, 445 km (93%) on tar.
Total distance travelled: Around 1887 kilometres over 4 days — about 490 km (26%) on dirt roads.
Experience required: Beginner to Advanced (only for sections between Alicedale and Bathurst).
Best time of year to go: September to April.
Route, trip and challenges – highlights reel: Feeling the thrum, balance and poise of the mighty twin ,no matter what the conditions, particularly on my first testing stretch of dirt track between Dysseldorp and Uniondale; drinking in the beauty of the engaging Hartebeest Post to Steytlerville dirt track; making it through the ultra-challenging Alicedale to N2 junction section; appreciating the verdant thicket covered slopes from Southwell to Bathurst; being assisted on the side of the road by Uitenhage locals, Leon and Karen Fouché when the Twin ran out of petrol; enjoying the coastal beauty of the Boknes to Alexandria road and the sublime Hoekplaaspad outside De Rust.
Accommodation notes: Hartebeest Post (Uniondale); contact Lizette on 072 699 1163 and Pig and Whistle Inn (Bathurst): 046-625 0673.